2017

Roadtrip Estonia-Latvia

Summer 2017: Estonia-Latvia

For the family summer holiday we went to the Baltic brothers Estonia and Latvia: ideal for a relaxed, but surprising tour. We took a fresh look at how these small countries quickly separated themselves from the big bear in the east. We discovered some of the most beautiful national parks in Estonia and Latvia and alternated natural beauty with fairytale cities. We walked past large Scandinavian boulders on the coast and through lovely hills in unknown Southeast Estonia. We took a leisurely bike ride, climbed sturdy, old lighthouses and mixed this with hip coffee shops and the new Nordic cuisine to add flavor to our holiday.

Recap Movie

Travel Diary


Monday June 26

I worked late into the night to start a few more simulations, but had gotten far enough in my research that my PC was allowed to stay at home for 2 weeks. So a real holiday. Elke (my sister) already had her last exam a week ago, all ready for this trip. My mom had toiled and sweated for a week because of the heat during her first week of vacation, where it was impossible to do anything. Although, she and Elke had some nice shopping trips thanks to the good air conditioning in the shops and the car. My dad worked until the last moment as always. Anyway, now it's time for a holiday!

With an hour delay we were able to leave the airport in Brussels, on to Riga! (slowest baggage check-in ever) There is also an hour time difference, so at 12:30 we set foot on Latvian soil. First we ate a sandwich and then queued up for the rental car. Again this took time, a lot of time. We did get a brand new car, 24 km on the clock. All luggage in the car and we drove through Riga to Sigulda, to our first hotel. We will do Riga as the last city which we can look forward to. The hotel was large, a spa hotel with a huge choice of saunas and massages. However, Elke and my room was so small that Harry Potter's broom closet was a good comparison. Basic rooms, fine for us. But what a nice dinner in the evening! My sister and I ordered a fruit drink and it was beautifully served. The tone was set. We took a tapas dish as a starter, yes you don't really have to travel to the north for that, but so beautifully served and so tasty too. The main courses were also gems, in terms of presentation and taste.

The holiday has already started well.


Tuesday June 27

After arriving in Tallinn, you can drive to Lahemaa National Park in an hour on a great highway. Wolves, bears and lynxes manage to survive in 'the land of coves'. Glaciers that retreated to Finland and Sweden after the last ice age left large boulders on the coast. You spend the night in the middle of the national park.


After a nice breakfast, our first assignment was to buy food for today. We had a large shopping center nearby so that was no problem. The drink and biscuit stock was replenished so we drove to the starting point of our first walk. The departure didn't quite go smoothly. Everyone had to apply mosquito repellent, which went fluently. So far, so good. Once we got away though, the traditional first day hiccups started: was the car locked for example?

We hiked through the woods on a nice trail and passed a height obstacle course. Maybe something for later? Via a brisk uphill along the toboggan course, we had a beautiful view. A lot of wind up there. Many hats flew away. Via various viewpoints we descended to near the bridge over the Gauja. In the distance we could already see the castle of Krimulda glittering. Up close it was a bit more dilapidated but a nice village to stroll around. We ate in the sun on a bench in the garden of the castle. Idyllic. Here we also discovered that my mom did not have a paper of the directions with me. Well, as said before, the departure did not go so smoothly.

Fortunately she had the map with her so we could search and find our way. We made a sidestep from the path and came to a large chair where a photo session promptly followed. Nice view also of the castle of Turaida. We continued on our way and finished the walk. Nice start through the Latvian forests. We stopped at the height obstacle course but decided to visit the castle Turaida first. Nicely restored, and according to some blogs on the internet beautiful too. We walked past a church where the sad story of Mayra was told and depicted through a sand-drawing animation. Really beautiful! The castle was destroyed by fire and the outer walls were rebuilt. We had a beautiful view from the tower. There was also a sculpture park in a huge garden. A kind of Middelheim park. One image appealed more to the imagination than the other, which made it very photogenic. We decided not to do the height obstacle course anymore and simply return to our hotel.

There my sister could check her exam marks. And yes, all passing marks! As a nice award she now gets 3 months vacation!!! We drank an aperitif to that! The food was again very tasty and enjoyable.


Wednesday June 28

In NP Lahemaa you will find several interesting, short hiking routes. We recommend that you cross the park by car and regularly stretch your legs. For example, start at the Viruveen swamp and walk along a boardwalk to the lookout tower. 'Captain's Village' Käsmu is a nice place for a stopover. It is not for nothing that there are many colorful holiday homes. Walk along the coast and admire the large boulders. From the fishing village of Altja you make a varied short circular walk that you can conclude in the cozy local tavern. Or grab a bike and paddle along the quiet, winding roads through the park at your leisure.


Thursday June 29

From the untouched nature in Lahemaa you can travel to the pleasant student city of Tartu in a few hours. Make a stop at Rakvere Castle, which towers majestically on a hill above the center. In addition, it is strongly recommended to make a small detour via Lake Peipsi, one of the largest lakes in Europe. A large part of the border between Estonia and Russia passes through this lake. On the banks you can eat delicious fried fish and in good weather it is of course a great place for a swimming break. After arriving in Tartu, explore the inner city and hike up the park-like hill behind the university.


Friday June 30

Estonia is not a well-trodden destination, but in the southeast of the country you will find even fewer other tourists than elsewhere. Nevertheless, the region is attractive, especially for active nature lovers, because of the lovely hilly landscape that you will not see anywhere else in Estonia. Your base is the cute village of Rouge on the edge of Nightingale Valley. Seven reflective lakes hang like a pearl necklace around the village's neck.


Saturday July 1

The green hills of nature park Haanja are ideal for a nice walk. From the watchtower on top of the Suur Munamagi (literally: Big Egg Hill) you can take a good look at all the beauty. The highest peak of the Baltic countries offers a view as far as Russia in clear weather. From above, immediately choose a lake or winding river on which you will go canoeing later.


Sunday July 2

You interrupt your journey of discovery through Estonia with a visit to neighboring Latvia for a few days. At first you will not see from the landscape that you have crossed the border, but Gauja National Park is clearly different from what you have seen so far: beautiful rock formations and wooded hills color the area. The local population is also not 1 to 1 comparable. The Estonians are related to the Finns; Latvians are real Balts who consider themselves more artistic than their cool northern neighbours.


Monday July 3

You have all day to explore the National Park and you will need it. You can enjoy yourself for a day in the immediate vicinity of Sigulda alone. There are many opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, canoeing. Be sure to float with the gondola over the Gauja River to Krimulda Castle. You will have a beautiful view of that other beautiful castle in Sigulda: Turaida. The medieval fortress of Turaida is well worth an extensive visit. The woods between the castles are teeming with hiking trails. Then take the car so that you can visit the rest of the national park. Walk past buildings and workers' cottages of the old paper mill in Ligatne. Visit the special open-air museum Araisi on an island in a lake. Settle down on the terrace in quaint Cesis.


Tuesday July 4

Leave the car for a day and take the direct train to Riga. The capital of Latvia is full of Art Nouveau. Wander through the maze of streets in the well-preserved medieval center. Art Nouveau is mainly found in the bustling New Town, just north of the Old Town. Drink a beer on one of the many terraces or enjoy a coffee in the many hip coffee shops.


Wednesday July 5

A long drive of about 300 km brings you back to Estonia. Soon after you leave Sigulda you reach the coast and you drive leisurely parallel to the coast northwards. Take your time and make a stopover every now and then. The beach at Saulkrasti is particularly beautiful and much less visited than the famous beaches of Jurmala. The Estonian summer capital Pärnu is also worth a pit stop. After you have passed the pristine and bird-rich Matsalu National Park you reach the pleasant coastal town of Haapsalu. In the picturesque center you will find a beautiful (and large) castle. After arriving, stroll along the boulevard and eat an ice cream with a sea view.


Thursday July 6

After a short drive you take the ferry in Rohuküla that takes you to the island of Hiiumaa in about 45 minutes. It is smaller than the neighboring island of Saaremaa, but therefore also quieter and a paradise for nature lovers. You spend the night in the south on Kassari, officially a separate island, but practically glued to Hiiumaa.


Friday July 7

A round by car will get you to know the island well. On wooded Tahkuna, visit the memorial to the disaster of the MS Estonia that took place off the coast of Hiiumaa. On the same peninsula, there was a lot of fighting in WWII and you can view bunkers from the Soviet era from the inside. Climb the striking Kopu Lighthouse and enjoy the view. The quiet asphalt roads are also ideal for a varied bike ride. Or find one of the beaches near Kassari or, for example, at Surfers Paradise on the western tip.


Saturday July 8

You take the boat back to the mainland and then drive back to Tallinn in about an hour and a half. Your grand tour through Estonia & Latvia is over, but it is highly recommended to extend one or more nights in Tallinn.


Sunday July 9