Recap Movie

Travel Diary

Saturday July 17

We started off our holiday with a flight from Amsterdam Schiphol to the airport of Madeira. However, upon arriving my luggage did not seem to have come along with me due to strikes and logistical problems in Amsterdam. After having filled in a form to retrieve my luggage, we left by taxi towards Machico where we dropped off Grace's luggage and immediately left for a first walk. We went to the São Lourenço peninsula, the easternmost point of Madeira with landscapes of moors and cliffs in all shapes and colors where we made a small stop to swim for the first time. In the evening we went back to Machico, the first  city founded in Madeira and the old capital of the island.

250m up and down.

Sunday July 18

In the morning we departed from Machico along a path that goes 300 m above the ocean. After the terraced fields of the Ribeira Seca valley, we followed the coastal path Boca do Risco with wide views and surprising creeks below us. We walked through pine and eucalyptus trees and descended through fields and hamlets to the fishing village of Porto da Cruz. Here we took a transfer to Santana, famous for its typical thatched roof houses, where I bought myself walking shoes, some underpants, and some T-shirts. We also still visited the local amusement park which was only a short walk away.

250m up, 350m down.

Monday July 19

After a short transfer we followed one of the most spectacular levada (an irrigation system to take water from the mountains down past all the fields) walks on the island. Step by step we entered the famous Laurisilva, the original subtropical laurel forest, which today only exists in Madeira and the Azores. Through a few tunnels and viaducts we reached the famous green valley, the Caldeiro Verde. Then we descended to the remote village of Ilha with a beautiful view of the ocean after which we were brought back to to Santana.

90m up, 600m down.

Tuesday July 20

Today was one of the most beautiful (but also exhausting) mountain hikes in Madeira! From Achada do Teixeira, the path lead to the highest peak of the island, the Pico Ruivo, then followed the central ridge that runs from east to west. The path alternated several times from the northern (cool and misty) to the southern (scorching hot) flank and offered sublime views of the coast. We went via the laurisylva to Encumeada, a little settlement on the central plateau of the island.

550m up, 1240m down.

Wednesday July 21

Today we did a beautiful loop walk from Encumeada over the plateau of Paul da Serra (1600m). First we followed a levada along the southern ridge. Then we trekked along the central ridge to the levada do Pináculo which runs along the north side of the plateau of Paul da Serra. Primeval forest, waterfalls, spectacular views of São Vicente and the great peaks made it an unforgettable hike. Via the levada do Norte and a passage through two tunnels we returned to the place we left from in the morning at Encumeada.

650m up and down.

Thursday July 22

In the morning we returned to the plateau of Paul da Serra, the starting point of our great descent to the north side of Madeira. After crossing the plateau we arrived at the ancient crater of Fanal. This enchanting setting with hundred-year-old laurel trees was an oasis of peace and tranquility. After a descent through the valley of Ribeira Chao, with basalt stone houses and landscaped terraces, we arrived in Seixal, a small agricultural village with sheltered coves and one of the largest black sand beaches on the island. The whole descent took us quite a while and was very demanding of our knees. As a result Grace found this to be the most difficult day from our trip. From Seixal we were transfered to Porto Moniz, a lovely city at the sea where we went straight to bed. As a happy surprise today, they found my luggage which was transferred across the island and was waiting for me at the reception!

200m up, 1600m down.

Friday July 23

We took a taxi to the Achada da Cruz funicular where we took the cable car down along a spectacular cliff. This cable car is mainly used by farmers to transport their harvests from down the mountain upwards. At the bottom of the cliff were terraces where crops were grown (one of the only areas on the island where this is possible). From down at the sea we climbed all the way up again and descended back down when returning towards Santa and Porto Moniz. We enjoyed the rest of our day by swimming in the natural sea pools and visiting the local aquarium.

450m up, 500m down.

Saturday July 24

Today we transferred to the plateau of Paul da Serra, where the deep Ribeira de Janela valley originates at an altitude of 1200 meters. In Rabaçal, we followed the countless levadas that draw water in the heart of the mountain and discover waterfalls that crash down the walls in an impressive forest, with giant dandelions and daisies. At the end of the walk and after a tunnel passage, we were transferred to the charming village of Jardim do Mar on the south coast. Since this walk was also fairly short, we went for a stroll along the beach and found a great swimming and diving spot after which we returned to our guesthouse to enjoy the sunset while playing an escape room game.

250m up, 485m down.

Sunday July 25

Today half of the walk was along the pebble beach and was inaccessible at high tide. Due to the low tide being early in the morning, this meant we had to do the walk backwards (which brought along some navigational problems). We started by going along the coast to the fishing village of Paul do Mar. We then started the second part of our walk with a spectacular ascent along a former royal road to Faja da Ovelha. We continued south along the Levada Nova, in the shade of pine and eucalyptus trees. Along the levada, surrounded by blue agapanthus, white amaryllis, orange montbrétias, pine and eucalyptus trees, we returned to the villages and banana plantations. We descended to the village of Prazeres and from there continued to Jardim do Mar walking along volcanic rock walls, covered with house garlic. Another long but satisfying day.

650m up and down.

Monday July 26

Today was our last official hiking day and we ended with a bang. We hiked the foothills of the Pico Grande and the Boca da Corrida pass, with spectacular views of the ridges and Curral das Freiras. As a cherry on top of the pie, we ascended the Pico Grande itself all the way to the top to have a view over the whole island, seeing both the sea in the north and in the south. After our walk we took a taxi to Funchal where we stayed the night.

1110m up, 770m down.

Tuesday July 27

We spent a day in Funchal, the birth city of Cristiano Ronaldo, the famous Portuguese football player. The name Funchal comes from fennel (Foncho in Portuguese) that grew in the bay when the Portuguese arrived. We took the cable car to Monte to visit the tropical garden and enjoy the panoramic view of the city, after which we descended on foot to the lower town. In th evening we went to a restaurant where they played and sang live Fado music (traditional Portuguese music). After a last swim, this time in the pool of the hotel, we packed our bags to leave for Amsterdam the next day.

Wednesday July 28

We ended our holiday in Madeira during Corona times by transferring to the airport and flying back home. This time around there were luckily no luggage problems!